In its 1950s heyday, Port Antonio was a thriving banana port and holiday home of swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn. But as banana exports dwindled, the town receded into a slumber from which it is only now showing signs of waking. Locals joke that its sleepiness makes it appealing only to "newlyweds and nearly-deads," but Porty boasts some of Jamaica's most beautiful and unspoiled beaches, well worth the ride on rugged, pothole-scarred roads to reach them.

Hotel Hot Spots
You won't find large beachfront resorts in Port Antonio; the town's mainly European visitors stay in villas, small hotels and B&Bs, most of them just inland, minutes from the beach.

Powder for the People
Frenchman's Cove is undoubtedly one of Jamaica's most picturesque beaches, a wide, white strand whose calm waters lap against a protective cove. A small river flows through the 48-acre property, meeting the sea at the beach's west end, where children fling themselves off a rope swing into the bracing water. A couple of tents accommodate a restaurant and bar; at lunchtime tables clothed in white linens are set up on the sand, and uniformed waiters deliver drinks to your chaise. It's a delightfully elegant beach experience made all the more relaxing by the absence of water sports.

It's rough going along a rutted downward slope to Winnifred Beach (also known as Fairy Hill), but at the bottom a laid-back local favorite awaits, complete with food stalls and reggae beats blasting from parked cars. Further east at Long Bay, waves crash to shore and palms fringe the strollable 2-mile-long stretch of super-fine sand. Undertows are strong here, so wise waders avoid venturing beyond knee deep. Erosion has diminished the strip at Boston Beach, but the fragrant jerk stands offer delicious compensation.

Where to Stay
Eco-conscious beach lovers are warmly welcomed at Mocking Bird Hill, where rates start at $125 in low season ($165 high). 876-993-7134; hotelmockingbirdhill.com

Just minutes away from Mocking Bird Hill is Frenchman's Cove, which offers rooms and 18 one- to three-bedroom villas. Rates are $83 to $250 per person year-round. 876-993-7270; frenchmans-cove-resort.com

Where to Eat For a fluffy and filling omelet, discover Dickie's Best-Kept Secret. Perched precariously on a cliff, Alvin "Dickie" Butler's 30-year-old restaurant is a Port Antonio classic, hidden in plain sight on the big bend on the main road into town. A hearty breakfast of tea or coffee, fresh fruit, cereal and a giant omelet jam-packed with vegetables or seafood is $12. Reservations are required. 876-809-6276 Hot Stuff Start your surfin' safari at Boston Beach, where Cool Out Surf Camp's Odale Layne offers lessons and boards. Rates are $30 an hour for lessons and $10 an hour for board rental. 876-861-5484