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Jamaica's Treasure Beach


Treasure Beach isn't a single beach but the collective name for a quartet of coves on Jamaica's south coast. A peaceful rural fishing village, it found favor in the last 10 years with European visitors and North Americans in search of a rootsy, no-frills vacation with plenty of opportunities to mix with the local community.
You won't find the sugary white stuff here; the sand on the south coast's strands varies in color from buff to gold to deepest caramel tinged with black. And since the area's windswept beaches are populated only by small groups of swimmers and fishermen, odds are you'll always have plenty of space to yourself.


Hotel Hot Spots
Villas and small hotels are the norm in Treasure Beach, and a few overlook the beach itself, such as 12-room Sunset Resort, where rates start at $106 year-round. 800-786-8452; sunsetresort.com

The only large resort in the area is further along the south coast, where Sandals Whitehouse has its own 2-mile-long beach. Rates start at $391 per person all-inclusive in low season ($407 high). 888-SANDALS; sandals.com

 

Powder for the People
Skiffs rest on the brown sands of Frenchman's Beach, which is popular with German backpackers and dotted with a couple of bars and a small restaurant. In January, February and July, when the winds and surf pick up, it's recommended for strong swimmers only. Adjacent to Frenchman's, lively Jack Sprat Beach, a small, shell-strewn cove with caramel sand, lies in front of the restaurant of the same name. The water can be rough, and the shore is rocky in places, but buoys mark the safe swimming area.

Mile-long Great Bay Beach is a large fishing shore that neighbors the Great Pedro Bluff nature reserve. Its tan sands stippled with black grains are often deserted, save for a handful of swimmers. Great Bay has a bar but no changing facilities or restrooms.

Calabash Bay, a 10-minute walk from Jake's hotel, has coarse, brown sand and a rocky shore. About half an hour's drive away, the 2-mile golden sweep at Parrotee Bay borders calm waters.
Where to Stay
The area's best-known lodging is at Jake's, a relaxed and family-friendly boutique with 29 funky cottages. The hotel's golden-sand beach is tiny, but there's a saltwater pool. Rates start at $95 in low season ($115 high). 877-JAMAIC-8; jakeshotel.com

Where to Eat
Jack Sprat is a casual, beachfront seafood and pizza joint. Try its flavorful creole or garlic shrimp served with rice and peas or the fried cassava bread, bammy. 876-965-3583

Hot Stuff
Hop a 25-minute canoe ride from Frenchman's Beach out to the Pelican Bar, a rustic saloon perched on stilts in the water off Parrotee Bay. The ride costs $75 per couple round-trip, when booked at Jake's. 876-354-4218

 

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