Jamaica's westernmost resort town has two speeds --
slow and slower -- all the better to get you into that blissed-out,
beach-ready state. The capital of casual has blossomed since it first
gained popularity as a hippie hangout in the '60s, and in spite of
sometimes-intrusive overtures from beach vendors and hustlers, the
laid-back, "soon-come" vibe still prevails.
Hotel Hot Spots
A
string of hotels presides over Negril's 7-mile-long, white-sand strand,
including megahotels like RIU Negril, where all-inclusive rates start
at $252 per person in low season ($368 high). 888-666-8816; riu.com
Country Country offers a handful of cheap and cheerful cottages, starting at $135 in low season ($165 high). 876-957-4273; countrynegril.com
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Powder for the People
Jamaica's
longest stretch of beach is rightfully famous for its band of ivory
sand and clear, shallow sea lined with hotels, restaurants,
water-sports operations and a thriving retail community of souvenir
stalls. At the easternmost end is Bloody Bay, a relatively
quiet 2-mile-long curve bordered by a tangle of almond, cottonwood and
sea grape trees, where you can spread a towel in the shade, take a
glass-bottom-boat ride or watch the shenanigans at the busy RIU resorts
at either end of the bay. In the livelier, mid-beach section, Long Bay Beach Park
has two locations, both with changing facilities and lifeguards.
Although topography and development prevent walking the entire beach
from end to end, you can still stroll for long stretches, soaking up
the Negril scene.
Where to Stay
Bed down right on the
beachfront at Idle Awhile, a stylish yet casual 14-room retreat
decorated with sun-washed hues and island-style chic. Rates start at
$120 in low season ($190 high). 876-957-3302; idleawhile.com
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Where to Eat
The
beachfront restaurant at Kuyaba Negril is known for its mouthwatering
snapper-fillet sandwich on hot, homemade cocobread (876-957-4318).
Hungry Lion on the West End road is a great vegetarian dinner option
(876-957-4486) and also has a browse-worthy gallery and gift shop. Idle
Awhile's Chill Awhile is another good beachfront dining deck.
Hot Stuff
For
about $20 round-trip, any of the boat operators along the beach will
take you to Booby Cay, a swimsuit-optional islet just offshore where
you can sun on its two small beaches.
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